Nov. 28, 2023
Timepieces, Jewelry, Eyewear
By Jeremy Freed
Most of us don’t need a watch to check the time anymore, but a stylish timepiece can be an easy way to elevate your overall look—not to mention a great way to spend a little less time staring at your phone. “Your watch isn’t about telling the time, your watch is about you, and that’s something you can’t get from a phone or smartwatch,” says Kaz Mirza, co-host of the podcast Two Broke Watch Snobs. He notes a shift in watches “from a form of time telling to a form of self expression.”
From casual watches that cost a few hundred dollars to diamond-studded creations with six-figure prices (reminder: jewelry insurance), there is a dazzling range of pieces on offer, and legions of zealous collectors eagerly awaiting each new release. With so many brands and models to choose from, however, and plenty of jargon to decipher, finding the right watch to suit your style can be a daunting process. We tapped watch-loving experts to share their top picks for a variety of tastes and price points, including pieces designed to make a style statement and classic Swiss models with intricate mechanical movements. (For watches designed for women, shop here.)
As the New York City-based founder of Complecto, an inclusive community of watch collectors, Jason Gong’s favorite go-to is the retro-chic Tissot PRX, a neo-vintage release that’s available in a range of colors and several case sizes. “This is a true do-it-all watch that can seamlessly transition from the beach to the boardroom,” he says.
For a more business-casual look, Atlanta-based celebrity wardrobe stylist Ryan Christopher is a fan of the Shinola Runwell, a large-but-unassuming piece available in finishes from matte black to gold. “It’s for the traditional guy who doesn’t always wear a suit,” he says. “I would pair it with jeans and a blazer.”
Turner Allen, founder and lead stylist of New York City’s Style Turner, appreciates the durability and versatility of the Seiko Prospex, a diver’s watch with a sumptuous forest green dial. “It’s an ideal watch for everyday wear thanks to its universally flattering case size and timeless design,” he says, noting that Seiko’s solar-powered movement requires neither winding nor replacing batteries.
Mechanical watches (ones powered by rotors and springs rather than batteries) occupy the top spot in the timepiece hierarchy, and while there’s virtually no limit to how much you can spend on a mechanical watch there are good options at every price point. Mirza has a lot of experience with budget-friendly mechanical watches, and he likes the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 for its refined looks and ideal proportions. “At 40mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick it’s one of the best possible sweet spots you could find,” he says. For a more unconventional look, Allen suggests the Oris Rectangular, “particularly for individuals with smaller wrists who prefer a sleeker look over bulky round watches.”
Leslie Fleischman, the owner of London’s Vintage Watch Room, praises the Hamilton Khaki Field, a Swiss-made watch inspired by military field watches of the 1940s. “It’s steeped in history and combines style with practicality—as any good field watch should,” he says of the nice-price mechanical wrist piece.
As the popularity of watch collecting continues to boom, certain timepieces have become prized in part for their ability to command the respect of anyone in the know. The Baume et Mercier Riviera, a modern revival of a classic 1970s design, is exactly that sort of watch, Fleischman says. “The new iteration has lost none of its verve or style—it’s a legendary watch from a great Maison.” Gong favors the sporty looks and “impressive technical bona fides,” of the Oris ProPilot, which has a sleek titanium case and a covetable Swiss-made automatic movement.
For those seeking something with a more traditional aesthetic, Fleischman suggests the Longines Master, a Swiss-made watch with refined details, a luxurious textured dial and an alligator strap.
You don’t need a bezel full of gemstones to make a statement with your wrist wear, says Mirza, who points anyone looking for something unusual and eye-catching to the Bulova Computron, a modern re-edition of a classic digital watch from the disco era. “It hits that perfect comfort zone between retro-vintage perfection and everyday wearability,” he says.
Mirza is also partial to the Rado True Square Open Heart, a “fearless and fashion-forward” choice with a high-tech ceramic case that’s lightweight and scratch-resistant. The transparent dial and case back reveal its intricate Swiss movement.
When he’s looking to add a luxurious finishing touch to a high-fashion look, Christopher loves the subtle glam of the Gucci G-Timeless with 18-karat gold-plated stainless steel and understated logos. “It’s clean, stylish and modern, and just enough to draw the eye without being overbearing.”
$1,595 at Neiman Marcus
For casual days and outdoorsy looks, the Todd Snyder x Timex Navi XL is as durable as it is stylish, says New York City- and Los Angeles-based stylist Cassandra Sethi, noting its 100-meter water resistance and ballistic fabric strap. “The touch of orange on the face gives it a nice pop of color,” she adds. Gong’s off-duty pick is the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression, a classic diver’s watch whose jaunty palette and sturdy case make it “the perfect choice for your weekend fits and a great beach vacation companion.”
For a more polished look that’s still ready for outdoor recreation, Sethi likes the Fossil Heritage. Its combination of a cream dial and topstitched leather strap “is perfect for those that want to go from work to outdoor adventure.”
The best watch brands are often rooted in craftsmanship and sentimental value since what you wear is part of your personal story and style. Not surprisingly, watches tend to make excellent gifts for milestone moments—birthdays, weddings, anniversaries, graduations—and if you invest in classics, they’ll last forever. If you’ve been lucky enough to inherit a vintage Rolex or Patek Philippe, you’ve got a piece of history on your wrist.
The best watch brands strike a balance between old-world craftsmanship and modern design.
ILLUSTRATION: FORBES / PHOTO: RETAILERSShopping for a luxury watch requires a fair amount of knowledge on everything from movements to complications to cases. Whether you’re a collector or new to the watch world, I consulted experts to find the best watch brands to buy right now for every style and price point: I talked to watchmakers and repair specialists who know timepieces from the inside out—literally—and I also reached out to watch specialists to find out what brands hold their value over time. Here are the top picks:
Jomashop
Founded in: 1848 | Average price: $2,000-$80,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Swiss brand Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics since 1932 and they also supplied watches to the British Armed Forces in the 1940s. Their Speedmaster watch was worn by astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission and its graced the wrists of several James Bonds. As a result, Omegas are typically both sporty and sophisticated. “From a mechanic’s point of view, I like Omega movements—such as caliber 1120 and 861—because they’re well-constructed workhorses,” says New York City watchmaker Ron Gordon. “The cases are also functional and incredibly sturdy.”
Watchfinder USA
Founded in: 1905 | Average price: $3,000-$160,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Rolex watches are known for their elegance and reliability. “They’re built to perfection,” says Gordon. “If taken care of correctly, they will last forever. They’re a worthy investment.” Rolex’s iconic Datejust watch has an automatic movement, silver dial, 18k white gold bezel and stainless steel crown and oyster bracelet. It’s an excellent starter model for today’s watch collector.
Bloomingdales
Founded in: 1860 | Average price: $1,000-$14,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Edouard Heuer opened his watchmaking shop in the village of Saint-Imier, Switzerland, at age 20 where he began by selling silver pocket watches. In 1887, he introduced a patent to perfect the oscillating pinion—a key component that’s used start and stop chronographs—which is still in use today. “I especially like the Tag Heuer Carrera and Aquaracer models,” says Gordon. “The quality of the movements are top notch, and their well-constructed cases with screw down crowns are both dust- and water-resistant.”
Amazon
Founded in: 1983 | Average price: $12-$726 | Made in: Switzerland
Swatch disrupted the traditional watch market with its irreverent watches, often designed in collaboration with artists and influencers, as an alternative to the old guard of traditional European watches. Fun fact: The name Swatch is abbreviation for "second watch," since the styles are affordable and meant to be switched up often. Collectors covet many of the original styles as well as newer releases, such as this oversized pick.
Todd Snyder
Founded in: 1854 | Average price: $45-$495 | Made in: America
Timex was first established in 1854, as the Waterbury Clock Company. The made-in-the-USA brand stamped gears out of metal, instead of carving them from the traditional wood, which resulted in smaller, more accurate movements. Early fans included Mark Twain, who bought two Timex watches. Today, the brand has stayed true to its stylish and affordable roots, and a recent collab with American menswear designer Todd Snyder puts a modern twist on some of their most iconic designs.
Citizen
Founded in: 1918 | Average price: $225-$4,750 | Made in: Japan
The first watch brand to create quartz crystal and titanium timepieces, Citizen launched in the early 1900s, and later pioneered the atomic timekeeping watch in 1993. Citizen has remained a pioneer in the field: Its Eco-Drive models use a battery recharged by a solar panel hidden under the watch face.
Watchfinder & Co.
Founded in: 1839 | Average price: $7,000-$450,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Wearing a luxury watch says that you’re dependable and punctual, but wearing a Patek says that you know watches—well. It’s the last family-owned independent watch manufacturer in Geneva, and this holy grail watch brand is known for its mechanical precision and modern supercomplications. Past and present fans include everyone from Andy Warhol to Jay-Z.
Mr Porter
Founded in: 1847 | Average price: $2,000-$60,000 | Made in: France
Cartier watches have graced the wrists of everyone from Jackie Kennedy to Mick Jagger to Kate Middleton. And while the Cartier Panthere has reached cult status, the Cartier Tank watch is arguably the brand’s most famous. It was introduced in 1917 during World War I and is said to be a bird’s eye view of the inside of a tank, inspired by the Renault FT-17 talks rolling past watchmaker Louis Francois Cartier’s window.
Samsung Electronics America
Founded in: 1969 | Average price: $170-$450 | Made in: South Korea
Samsung’s Galaxy Watch5 Pro is a top-rated model, and the top pick for the best smartwatch for Android users, in our recent review. It has everything you’d expect—fitness tracking, blood pressure tracking, GPS and a long battery life—combined with an impact-proof, rugged design. Galaxy’s system syncs with Google, so you can access Maps, Google Assistant, Google Pay, Messages and more, on the go.
Amazon
Founded in: 1976 | Average price: $249-$1299 | Made in: America
Our pick for the best smartwatch for iPhones overall, Apple’s Series 8 is an elegant, robust timepiece. While the Ultra is the latest model, the Series 8 is slightly more affordable and extremely well-rounded: It’s got the Always-On Retina display with an edge-to-edge design, crash detection, sleep coaching, workout training and an improved, long-lasting battery life.
Featured content:WatchRapport
Founded in: 1860 | Average price: $3,000-$100,000 | Made in: Italy
Italian heritage brand Panerai began fine-tuning some of its most famous models—the Radiomir and Luminor—when supplying precision instruments to the Italian Royal Navy in the 1940s. Today, Panerai’s watches—like this Submersible model, introduced in 2022—are marked by cases with pronounced edges and a rugged-meets-refined edge.
Shinola Detroit
Founded in: 1877 | Average price: $395-$2,995 | Made in: America
Shinola began as a shoe polish brand, founded in Rochester, New York in 1877. It eventually went out of business in 1960, but in 2011, the brand was reborn in Detroit, as an American watch manufacturer to rival Swiss brands. Every Shinola watch is assembled in the United States and its watch factory is housed in a former automotive research lab. The sleek Model D Detrola is the brand’s bestseller for men.
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Huckberry
Founded in: 1881 | Average price: $2,000-$60,000 | Made in: Japan
Twenty one year-old entrepreneur Kintaro Hattori opened a shop selling and repairing watches and clocks in Tokyo. Eleven years later, in 1892, he established the 'Seikosha' factory. Today, Seiko designs and develops all the components of its watches, including their mechanical ones that consist of approximately 200 parts. Today, the brand has a nostalgic appeal among watch enthusiasts who appreciate its understated yet technically robust designs.
Neiman Marcus
Founded in: 1837 | Average price: $3,375-$42,075 | Made in: France
Émile Hermès, the grandson of founder Thierry Hermès, reportedly c,reated the brand’s first watch for his daughter Jacqueline in 1912, by attaching leather straps to a pocket watch so that she could wear it around her wrist. In the 1920s, the brand invested more heavily in its watch collection, pairing its high level of craftsmanship with Swiss-made movements. If you’re going to splurge, the Heure H watch is iconic but never feels stuffy, thanks to its refined shape, clean lines, gold-plated H bezel and buttery leather strap.
Free People
Founded in: 2009 | Average price: $95-$250 | Made in: America
Founded in 2009 in Breda puts a modern spin on classic timepieces with high quality but not ultra high-priced designs. Many of the Dallas, Texas-based brand’s watches cost under $150, are gender-neutral and feature sophisticated details. The Tandem is an update to the Pulse bestseller, with a minimalist case that only reveals the hour and minutes in a slim window.
Saks
Founded in: 1833 | Average price: $3,000-$40,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Jaeger-LeCoultre develops its timepieces by hand from start to finish—meaning, from design to decoration to production—all within its own workshops. Their most famous women’s watch, the Reverso, features a cool mechanism that allows you to flip the watch face so it’s protected.
Neiman Marcus
Founded in: 1775 | Average price: $5,000-$140,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Abraham-Louis Breguet founded Breguet in Paris in the years before to the French Revolution, and he quickly became popular with the French Court. In the late 1700s, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon Bonaparte were distinguished patrons of Breguet, as was King George III and Alexander I of Russia. In the 1940s, Winston Churchill became a supporter, and his Breguet pocket watch remains on display at the Imperial War Museum in London today. While Breguet has a storied past with world leaders, their watches are now popular amongst CEOs and other captains of industry.
Fashionphile
Founded in: 1884 | Average price: $3,000-$40,000 | Made in: Switzerland
Stylish chronographs are Breitling’s bread and butter. In 1952, Willy Breitling created the Navitimer—its name a combination of “navigation” and “timer”–to allow pilots to perform all necessary calculations for a flight, including things such as average speed, distance traveled, and rate of climb and descent. It has been the brand’s most iconic model ever since.
Mr. Porter
Founded in: 1904 | Average price: $1,800-$4,500 | Made in: Switzerland
Even though Oris has been around for more than 100 years, it still feels cool and innovative. The independent watchmaker is known for creating sleek, sexy mechanical watches at more affordable price points than many other luxury brands. We particularly like the Aquis, Divers and ProPilot models for their uniquely colored dials.
Vacheron Constantin
Founded in: 1755 | Average price: $11,000-$170,000 | Made in: Switzerland
The watch you wear says a lot about you, and if you wear a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, you’re someone who appreciates expert craftsmanship and understated, timeless design. For more than 250 years, their cutting edge developments and refined supercomplications have made their timepieces the ultimate capstone for serious watch collectors.
Mr Porter
Founded in: 1865 | Average price: $2,500-$90,000| Made in: Switzerland
Chronograph watches are similar to stopwatches, with dials to measure hours, minutes, and seconds, and many feature additional complications, such as tachymeter scales for measuring distance. While Zenith has been well-known in watch circles for more than a century, it has recently exploded in mainstream popularity. “Zenith uses the El Primero chronograph movement,” says Kelly Yoch, Director of Client Relations for Watches of Switzerland USA. “It’s so famous that it was previously used in the Rolex Daytona, and it’s also the most accurate chronograph.”
Neiman Marcus
Founded in: 1874 | Average price: $7,000-$30,000 | Made in: Switzerland
The impetus for the Piaget brand was Georges Edouard Piaget’s desire to create a gift for his wife. In the 1950s, ultra-thin movements became one of the signatures of the brand. In the 1960s, they introduced watches with ornamental stones set into the dial, which also remains one of Piaget’s hallmarks.
Selfridges
Founded in: 1735| Average price: $9,000-$40,000 | Made in: Switzerland
For more than 280 years, Blancpain has created watches that are classically beautiful and have some of the most complicated mechanical movements created today. Their popular Villeret collection is named for the brand’s native village in Switzerland, and they’re also known for creating one of the most famous dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Famous wearers reportedly include avid watch collector Brad Pitt and Francis Ford Coppola.
Joy is the "main thing to consider when choosing a watch,” says Kelly Yoch, Director of Client Relations for Watches of Switzerland USA. “Ask yourself whether or not it makes you smile when you look down at your wrist.” From there, think practically about if the watch suits you and your lifestyle. “If the answer is no, don’t buy it," advises Yoch. Beyond these initial pointers, here’s what else to keep in mind:
Two key things to keep in mind when purchasing a timepiece are style and durability. Different watches are designed for different uses, so a watch you’d wear to go diving in—such as a tool watch—will be more rugged and quite different in appearance from one you’d wear strictly for special events, like a dress watch.
Among watch aficionados, mechanical watches—that use traditional clockwork technology—carry more clout. Manual-winding watches need to be wound each day, which requires effort from the wearer, as well as the potential financial investment in a watch winder. The advantage of a battery-powered quartz movement is that the wearer doesn’t have to do much other than change the watch battery.
A complication on a watch is anything other than the display of time as seconds, minutes and hours. In general, a complication is something displayed to make your life easier—such as a date window, dual time zones, moon phases or a perpetual calendar. When shopping for a timepiece, make sure you know how to use the watch and it’s not overly complex. You won’t wear a watch if you don’t know how to use it.
To get an idea of what case size works best on your wrist, do an in-person try on session before buying. Some may look too bulky, while others will appear skimpy and get lost on your wrist. Watch cases come in a variety of shapes—the more basic are round, oval, square or rectangular—and they’re typically listed in millimeters. They usually range from about 24mm to 38mm for women and 38mm and 56mm for men, but this is completely dependent on personal preference. “Trends in watch case sizes are kind of like trends in jeans—they change all the time,” says Gordon. “A 30mm case is pretty standard for a woman, and 38 to 42mm is fairly standard for a man.”
However, it’s ultimately up to you to decide what you like best. “Watches should be judged by their size and not the sex they’re marketed for,” says Yoch. “If you fall in love with something that’s not a typical or traditional size, forget whether the label says it’s men’s or women's. Buy what you like.”
Straps come in a variety of materials, including leather, metal (often referred to as a bracelet), fabric and rubber. There are essentially two types of straps: those that are a continuous and attached to the watch case, and those that are interchangeable or replaceable. “An integral strap or bracelet cannot be removed and is difficult to repair,” says Gordon. “With most watches, like Rolexes, the strap or bracelet comes off and can be changed.” In general, bands range in size from six to eight inches and are typically about half the width of the watch case.
Make sure you buy an expensive watch from an authorized dealer, says Gordon, and that it comes with a certificate of authenticity and a warranty. “Every watch has a different warranty, although in general they’re between one and five years,” he says.
If you’re looking for the rarest of watches, there are often waiting lists with authorized dealers, so you may not be able to just purchase one the minute you want it. As to be expected, the rarer the timepiece, the more expensive it will be. If you think you may one day want to resell your watch, ask authorized dealers which brands and models have the best resale value.
"Brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe have good resale value largely because there’s so much demand for them,” says Yoch. “But the smaller, independent brands are geniuses in watchmaking right next to the bigger houses.” Brands such as Oris, Zenith, H. Moser and Armin Strom have the same quality and craftsmanship, she says, “and they provide interesting features and movements and beautifully hand done dials."
Both are good options, but they’re considerably different. “It’s really a matter of opinion,” says Gordon. “Quartz—or battery powered—timepieces are more accurate, but you have to change the battery and many people don’t like to do that. People with automatic watches appreciate the mechanisms and how intricately they’re constructed.” Mechanical watches are generally far more expensive.
Manual and automatic watches are both mechanical. “Manual movements need to be wound daily,” says Gordon. “Automatic movements are self-winding, so you don’t have to do this because the watch winds itself while you wear it on your wrist.” If, however, you don’t wear your automatic watch for a couple days it will stop, so you’ll need to wind it manually. A quartz movement is battery powered so doesn’t require winding.
Also known as a caliber or calibre, a movement is the actual internal mechanism of the watch that sits inside the watch case. The term came about because when mechanical timepieces were initially developed, the clockwork movements were made of lots of small, moving parts. Think of it as the engine inside the watch that makes everything tick.
Some brands buy movements to include in their timepieces, while others make their own movements. Companies who make their own are typically more expensive and hold more clout.
“A complication is really just an extra feature in addition to telling the time,” says Gordon. “It could be a stopwatch or chronograph function, alarm, moon phase, time zone, minute repeater or tourbillon to boost accuracy.”
“I’d recommend people get their watch serviced every three to five years,” says Gordon. “If you wear your watch a lot, you may have to do it every year.”
"The rise in popularity of smartwatches made people think about wearing a watch who previously may not have worn one,” says Yoch. “But smartwatches didn’t kill the watch industry—they simply brought attention to watchmaking as a whole. Smartwatches are literally computers on your wrist, but they aren’t about the art of telling time like luxury watches are."
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